Project "YoRHa" modding Tronxy X1

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This project starts with a brand new machine, Tronxy X1, Purchased it back on 2019-11-12, for 96.8USD

What's in the box
Just like many printers of it's time, it came in the form of kit, which means there is a huge chance, that the issues you face, could be from assembling the thing. luckily we have an assembly manual in the MicroSD card

MicroSD card unlabeled with an orange USB adapter for it, hardware is waaaaay more than the machine needs, I guess it is cheaper to get them in bulk. 2020 extrusion for the X gantry and one tiny one to connect the 2040 extrusions of the Y and Z, Acrylic button plate to aligned it all together and some corner brackets to square it up with some rigidity.

a 12V machine with brick power Supply that I don't know how it can even handle itself it is so light that it scares me

First Build
me being me, I can't leave things stock, modded it during assembly, which caused few issues due to things being not compatible with stock stuff.

the extruder have also been changed to the one that came stock with ender 3 I just wanted to use something that I know how it works (yes YoRHa is my second printer) the stock extruder looked strong, but didn't want to bother with it. plus I am changing it in the future anyways. and to finish it all up, I slapped a 12v 4010 blower fan on it. I was already ordering stuff from Creality. I thought about the bottom acrylic part, took it off I didn't feel it was important especially with the larger bracers I placed on it (Spoiler oh how wrong I am)

btw here are the mods I have printed; For Y axis For X axis

Now what was incompatible you ask? the belt tensioner for the Y axis. I failed to notice that the designer mentioned "16 tooth GT2 pulley with 3mm bearing" as a requirement. the only part I ended up keeping is the Z carriage and replaced the metal corner brackets to bigger plastic ones.
note: the ones that came with the printer are for M5 screws, yet they put M4 T nuts and screws the only solution is to patch it up with washers which was never elegant...but does it have to? not really,

the printer got assembled aaaaand....Cable mess

don't mind the probe, I didn't use it was just checking if it would fit the stock shroud, which it did, I didn't have a springsteel sheet yet and after leveling the bed few times it felt simple enough that I won't need a probe. plus the printer was running Repetier fw, and I know nothing about. yup time to go all marlin. (spoiler I changed firmware again after this point)

however, this is the very first print it did...which is far from acceptable I wonder what did I do wrong. done it all and somehow it worked, from PID to Flow calibration (it obviously looks like underextrusion)

that can wait, let's mod some more!

Second Build
Flashing marlin 1.1.9 and Installing Mini BMG from TriangleLabs, (I was a noob ok? I didn't know it was only a dual gear extruder I thought it had 3:1 gear ratio) place back the acrylic base Esteps for the new extruder and went again for printing tests....skipping steps? excuse me? I thought those are better than stock!! it seems that the hotend wasn't hot enough to push filament in, so PID tuning was needed, I started printing at 195C instead of 190C.

Flashing marlin for the 2nd time (the first was on ender 3) somehow is not an easy task, this board doesn't receive power over USB, which can be both a good thing and a bad thing. after several attempts, a bootloader was installed and the machine is kicking marlin which is nice. didn't do anything fancy on it, but it will help for future modding.

why change back to acrylic parts? it is possible that the heat of the motors caused the plastic to warp, causing the machine to be unable to do circles anymore. but that still didn't do much, at this point I also have issues with bed adhesion which introduced me to painters tape, man how did I live without it. it prints miniatures well enough

I also ordered some pullies for X and Y Idlers but took long to arrive for me to test them. so far the printer didn't improve much I still couldn't pinpoint the cause of the problem and it kinda put me down, the printer managed to save me multiple times when ender 3 had a complete failure due to broken printed part. otherwise, it wasn't reliable enough for me.

Third & Current Build
Finally Aliexpress shipments have arrived, and we got teethed pullies, T-Slot L brackets, eccentric nuts, aluminum standoffs, Z carriage and T8 LeadScrew (what creality use for their machines)

Teethed pullies mainly allowed me to use belt tensioners, nothing much, the L brackets made the build look neater, eccentric nuts were needed at least for the Z carriage (not compatible stock). aluminum standoffs mostly cuz they have the same length as the eccentric nuts (lol I made a mistake here and misunderstood AliExpress diminutions used a washer to fix that, not the best solution but it works I think)

installing the Z carriage wasn't as easy as I thought had to drill a hole in the aluminum extrusion for the X gantry to get it to fit.

but that wasn't the end of it, doing this changed, made the X carriage unable to get to the far left side, so I had to change the endstop switch's mount to something shorter.

Used the endstop mount on X here cuz I already have one printed still I lost few millimeters but no biggie...but one more thing, the X carriage bottom screw hits the aluminum extrusion the way the manual suggest installing it ugh once again, taking things apart. this how it looked like before switching. also, while doing so I found out that the X-belt holder got bent somehow, fixed it back to place.

using Creality's carriage meant that I have to change the lead screw as well, probably the Z motor mounting as well (still didn't work on it yet but looking through it)

but guess what? after all of this, still circles weren't perfect! why? well, this is why


the acrylic motor mount, caused lots of issues due to flexing, and it may be the cause of the damage on the teethed pully, printed a motor mount to test it, and it is already better this is the mount, printed in PLA
Don't mind the miniature, it is meant to be printed on an SLA printer. yet the issues are not yet done, changing the motor mount meant that the endstop switch mount is gone.
Therefore we have two options:
1- Rotate the bed by 180 Degrees and use the mount's built in switch holder. (didn't test it but I should work)
2- Print a new mount for the switch and lose few more MM yet on the Y axis this time. (you can use the one I used for X carriage as well)

Dylan a friend of mine have been suggesting klipper recently, and dragged YoRHa to the Klipper side, now it scares me with how fast she can go. so we ended up shrinking the printable area to 140x140, oh well

This how YoRHa prints now Image

Next Build
Coming soon...

the Journey from Repitear to Klipper
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